Berlin Musings

Christmas, christmas, and the last week of the semester

2010-12-07T18:04:00.004+01:00

So, these past three months have flown past us and the semester is now winding down to an end. We arrived here with our sandals and sunglasses, and now we're covered with layers, hats, and scarfs. It is somewhat difficult to believe that the semester is practically over, when it feels like it had just begun. Alas, it is already the month of December and thursday evening is our farewell dinner. I myself will be spending another month here in Germany, and will do some more traveling, whereas most of the others will return either this weekend or the following week. Although I will be happy to return to the States, I am extremely content to remain here for Christmastime. Germany celebrates Christmas like no other country I have visited. Decorations are everywhere, but the real difference between Germany and the USA is the presence of christmas markets. Since the last weekend of November, dozens upon dozens of christmas markets have popped up all over Berlin. They range from the traditional, to the super commercial, such as the amusement park market near Alexanderplatz. It has been a delight visiting Weihnachtsmarkt after Weihnachsmarkt, drinking gluhwein, enjoying a bratwurst, and the general atmosphere.

This week, I made my first trip to the famous department store on the Kudamm known as KaDeWe. I had long heard of the gourmet section, what with its various specialities, and even American labels, like Stonewall Kitchen. My friend Amanda and I walked into KaDeWe and were wonderfully shocked by the beautiful Christmas decorations, which ironically, seemed to have a central park theme. Because this store is also a tourist draw, a lot of the signs are also in English, but it did strike me a bit strange to have this American theme for Christmas. The gourmet section on the sixth floor is quite an experience. It is food galore! It has more parts that one can count, and numerous little bar restuarants, that one can sit at and enjoy a coffee, or in one case, a glass of champagne. I understood why this store is so famous-it was quite overwhelming! When we spotted the American flag, we headed over to the American section, which was stocked with poptarts, oreos, dr. pepper, and even fluff. Naturally, every food item was twice as expensive as it would be in the States. Still, it was educational to see this section of American food, that Germans see as representative of our country. Fluff, reese's cups, country time lemonade. And while we were there, there were indeed Germans who were looking at the labels, and seemingly considering a purchase. Honestly, I was originally surprised to see so few American food labels in the German grocery stores. I imagined food was just another thing that was exported from America and plopped into Germany. But no, my grocery trips and the food I buy has been very different than my experiences and eating habits in the States. Besides Nutella, ramen noodles, and basic things like eggs and milk, it's hard to eat in the same way we would at home. So it was kind of strange and for a few moments, wonderful, to see these food items that have been absent from my life for the past few months. And also enlightening to see what Germans see as "American" food. Of course, poptarts.

Basketball in Berlin

2010-11-28T20:23:00.005+01:00

When my good friend from Berlin asked me if I wanted to go to a basketball game with her and her parents, my first reaction was surprise: they have basketball here? In Germany?? My friend Nina laughed. I met her years ago, when she was studying abroad at my high school in Connecticut. She understood my disbelief. "Do you want to come?" she asked again. "Of course!"
In the States, I attend numerous sports events each year. As a native Pittsburgher, I am naturally a very avid Steelers and Penguins fan, but also root for the University of Pittsburgh football and basketball teams. My father, who now lives in Connecticut, even has the liscense plate "go Pitt." We are that serious about it. So I was curious to see what a basketball event would exactly look like here in Berlin. We were seeing the Berlin professional team known as "Alba" play against the Frankfurt team. It was to be played in the O2 World Arena, which I had yet to visit but had regularly seen on my Ubahn trips in that area. You can't really miss it. It's right near the East Side Gallery, and is one of the main venue for sports and concerts in Berlin. My heart was delighted when we stepped inside the building and I saw concession stands just as we would see in America, but this time, they had labels like "Currywurst 21" or "Doner Kebab," and it was very appropriate. But I must say, I was surprised at how small the O2 arena really was: considerably smaller than any basketball or hockey place that I've been in. Any seat could have been a good seat. We happened to have very good seats, and when the teams were announced and the players introduced, the whole arena was dimmed, exciting music played, neon lights flashed, dancing girls did their routine. It all seemed so American, except the announcer was yelling auf Deutsch, of course. The fans were clearly interested, but it just felt odd to me. The stadium wasn't entirely filled, and they used these different sort of noise makers I've never seen used in the States. That's all fine, because we weren't in the States. But I was disappointed to hear the fans get extra loud during offense (they were a spirited bunch the entire game, I give them that), but don't they know that you just don't make that much noise when your team is on offense? Perhaps that's why Alba was down the majority of the game. Still, they came back in the 4th quarter and ended up winning in the end, which made for a great time.

Some interesting things happened during the game. I asked my friend Nina what the German word for "defense" was, because that's what I thought I heard the Germans saying. NO-wrong. They indeed were saying DEFENSE."They're saying Defense, Nina!" to which the German woman in front of me, a very enthusiastic woman with her little boy beside her, said "yes we say defense!" Fair enough. Seeing the cheerleaders/dancing girls was also kind of strange. Even my German friend said she thought they looked fake, but of course she has been to many sporting events in the States. But perhaps the oddest part of the night was the fact that half of the players on both teams were from the States, and these were the players that spent the majority of the time in the game. So there I sat, watching Americans playing basketball in Germany. Then, at the end of the game, they pulled aside the MVP of the game (an American) for an interview that was on the overhead announcer, and the broadcaster immediately began asking him the questions in English. This player's southern drawl filled the entire arena, and we could have been in the States hearing the same thing.

But no, we were in Germany. I heard, over the American voice, a woman say to her friend "Tschussieeee." Definitely not in the States.

Schrebergärten

2010-11-21T19:08:00.005+01:00

I've been meaning to blog about this phenomenon for quite some time. It was one of the very first things I noticed about the cityscape of Berlin: it is dotted with dozens upon dozens of "mini gardens." According to Der Spiegel, there are almost 75,000 small gardens in and around Berlin. I had never seen anything like this in an American city of comparable size: a colony with perhaps sixty or more small fenced in plots, with tiny accompanying cottages. From the outside, they look like quiet, peaceful communities. I imagine Berliners retreating to their cottages and gardens during spring and summer weekends,

spending hours working in their spaces. They seem like delightful communities, where neighbors share gardening advice. Recently, I've learned that these plots can be rented for a couple hundred euros per year. When I first saw them, I thought that these mini gardens may be a modern development, but apparently, they have been popular in Berlin since World War I and World War II. Now that the Green movement has taken off throughout the world, many cities are looking to Berlin's garden colonies as models. I only wish America would take more notice. Clearly, there are numerous benefits to having these gardens in a city, both for the environment as well as for ourselves. Two name just two: it has a cooling effect on the city, and promotes the sale of local, fresh foods. Most Berliners seem to live in high rise apartment dwellings, but the garden colonies allow them to have a plot of their own, if they so choose. I've read that in recent years, many of the colonies are in threat of being lost to developers. But if anything, these gardens already have such a long tradition here in Berlin that it seems unlikely they will disappear anytime soon.

*Photos taken from BBC and Der Spiegel

Praha: Land of Dvorak, Mucha, Kundera

2010-11-14T22:11:00.003+01:00

Two and a half years ago, I fumbled through study abroad catalogues and spent hours on the internet, searchign for my study abroad destination. It was between two places: the Czech Republic and India. At the time, I was enamored with the idea of Prague. The very sound of the name (Prague OR Praha) seemed to resonate within my romantic spirit. I was beckoned to Bohemia, to the very heart of Europe. Needless to say, I did not go to Prague, but instead traveled to Bangalore, India, and for very different reasons. But this weekend, I had the first occassion to visit the city I once dreamed of so often, the land that my nineteen year old soul was besotted with. It was everything I once thought it would be: romantic and charming, colorful and captivating. And of course, every other traveler is drawn to it as well.

There were more tourists there than in any other place I've visited-I heard more American voices than in any other European city. In some ways, the magic of the city was diminished by the presence of so many foreigners. I did not have the opportunity to travel far from the city center, and may have had a different experience had I the time. Still, how odd it must be for the life long Prague inhabitants to have their most treasured parts be overrun with tourists. The famous Charles Bride, for example, was often difficult to even walk through because of so many crowds. One is more concerned with their walking than viewing the statues alongside the edges, or the view of the Vtlava River. I found it much more enjoyable to walk on the other, less trafficked bridges.

I was happiest wandering through quiet alleyways, with the hum of a Dvorak melody swirling about my mind, with Kundera or Kafka's words written on the walls, with the bright blue sky that almost convinced me it was summer time. I fancied myself one of Mucha's women, mystical and alive in a fairytale. You see, Prague is home to many of my favorite creative types, and it was rewarding to walk through the steps of the places that inspired them. Prague was like Budapest and Bratislava-so distinct from most of Europe's metropolitan cities, whether they situated in northwestern Europe or the Mediterranean, almost undisturbed by the technological advances of mankind, left instead to be preserved, a living exhibition of the past. These places carry with them a special essence that Berlin, Paris, or other European destinations lack: an essence of old world Slavic charm. Of course, that is not to say that the cities aren't sprinkled with Mcdonald's and wifi hot spots, because they certainly are. Despite that, I felt like I had stepped into another world, so different from Berlin. Perhaps Prague feels this way because it was saved from destruction in WWII. Whatever the case is, it certainly lived up to my expectations, and I was happy to finally see it.

The Sufferings That Come From Politics

2010-11-08T12:50:00.001+01:00

Two years ago, I studied abroad for a semester in Bangalore, India. As anyone who has spent time in India knows, the experience was incredibly humbling. My innocent American eyes had never seen true poverty before. What’s more, I had never seen a group of people embrace their circumstances with such grace. It was a notion I had always read of in books-that those who have the least are the most willing to give-but experiencing it myself every day left impressions on me that time and distance could never erase. So here I am now in Germany, a land we more readily associate with the perpetration of crimes, rather than the sufferings of victims. It was something I was reminded of myself two weeks ago when we visited the concentration camp Sachsenhausen, north of Berlin. But this past week, both in my European Legal Traditions class and an excursion, I once again realized how Germans have suffered. In my legal class, we discussed a term known as “transitional justice” in post communist societies, including the former East Germany. Simply put, the term refers to the process by which a newly formed society/government deals with the injustices committed by the preceding regime. Providing access to secret police files is one such method. In the case of Germany, the Stasi File Law was enacted in the early 1990s which allowed East German citizens to view their files. A few days later, I stood in the old Stasi prison known as Hohenschönhausen, and heard an elderly man describe in German how he had discovered eighteen folders of files on himself alone. Eighteen, and he believes there are more to be found.Here was a man who was a seemingly good person, but for unfortunate reasons, attracted the attention of the Stasi. They believed he was a part of a dissident organization that helped East Germans escape to the West. So Wolfgang, actually a West Berliner, found himself in Hohenschönhausen, and then also in Bulgaria, a victim of politics. He escorted us through the grounds of the prison, describing to us the psychological torture measures (such as sleep deprivation) the Stasi took. He himself had experienced long and exhausting interrogation sessions. Isolation was also one of the methods of torture, and so in all the time he had spent in prison, our guide only had contact with his interrogator. I listened to his steady voice tell of his experiences, and watched as his eyes often watered, inspiring my own to fill up with tears. I shivered as we stood in the rain, making our way between buildings, as the rain fell on his head, through his frosty white thin hair. He had no ring on his hand, and we didn’t ask if he had ever had children. What we know for sure he never had was compensation. Because he spent the majority of time in Bulgaria rather than East Germany, the Germans did not think his situation warranted compensation from them. All he has now are the eighteen folders of files on himself that the Stasi kept. In India, I learned about the suffering that stems from poverty. But here, in the barren grounds of Sachsenhausen, and in the eyes of this man, I learn about the sufferings that come from politics.

From Berlin to Budapest and back again

2010-10-31T19:16:00.004+01:00

Two weeks ago, I had the pleasure of journeying to Budapest, Hungary. Whilst there, I could not help but compare Budapest to Berlin. Geographically, Budapest is situated very differently from Berlin. The great Danube runs in between Buda and Pest, whereas Berlin's river the Spree is quite smaller, and zigzags across the city. Sometimes I forget Berlin is by a river at all-there are times I hardly notice it (it might be noted that I did grow up in the city of three rivers-Pittsburgh). But one could never forget the wide Danube and the impressive bridges that connect the two parts of Budapest. There are dozens upon dozens of bridges here, but they resemble bridges over canals.

Moreover, Budapest is home to valleys and hills, whereas Berlin has very little of that. The Buda side is covered with hills, which provide for excellent views over the Danube looking towards Pest. Because of the hills, there are numerous caves and tunnels in Buda as well, which Berlin all but lacks. As a result of this geography, the cities feel quite differently on ground: Berlin sprawls across numerous districts and neighborhoods, seemingly never endings, whereas Budapest has two distinct areas separated by a large body of water. The geography of Budapest is much more apparent and much more interesting. However, Budapest is much smaller than Berlin: I could walk almost anywhere in Budapest. In Berlin, one has limits. One also has the incredible U and S Bahn system, whereas Budapest only has three metro lines. Most of the city runs by trams, but there are less trams still in use here.

The architecture of Budapest reflects a very different history. Since the city did not suffer from the same heavy bombing as Berlin did, most of the buildings from the 19th and early 20th century still survive. Little did I know that Budapest was a center of the Art Nouveau movement, and a great number of buildings were constructed in this style. One can still feel that period of history alive, whereas Berlin is continuously changing, always shifting to a new time.

Interestingly enough, both cities are home to a number of green spaces and parks. In Budapest, they had an entire island the size of Tiergarten (Margaret's Island), in addition to the City Park and the Buda Hill parks. In all my travels throughout Europe, these cities seemed most dedicated to the preservation of green spaces.

Upon arrival, I also noticed something else: Hungarians smile more. I almost felt like I was back in the States, where smiling at strangers is normal behavior. As a result, I felt much more at ease, and took the liberty to smile in public as I normally would have back home. It was wonderful! Not only that, I was approached numerous times by Hungarians who asked me the time, or similar sorts of questions. All the Hungarians I encountered were extremely kind and hospitable. They were certainly not as tough on the exterior as my Berliner neighbors are.

Still, visiting Budapest made me realize what a livable city Berlin is. It is certainly much more international, and always has a million things going on. I adored Budapest (as well as the exchange rate to the Hungarian forint), and it felt like I was stepping into the Old World, where Eastern European charm still realms, and the people are as warm as their goulash. Berlin is incredibly modern, and edgier.

A Review of American Stereotypes

2010-10-24T17:14:00.002+02:00

Recently, I met up with two German students (aged 17 and 18) in a cozy cafe near Rathaus Steglitz, where we discussed an array of topics, including the vastness of New York City, favorite movie stars, the Berlin area of Neukolln, and as you might expect from my title, American stereotypes. I'm always interested in hearing what foreigners have to say about Americans and what they understand as typical American behavior. Unfortunately, I didn't learn anything new from these German friends, Anja and Mike. They repeated some of the same ideas I have always heard, including:

1) Arrogance-"You all think you are number one everywhere, you always are invading some place, and thinking you are the best."

2) Racist-"All Americans are racist"

3) Loud, informal, and swear a lot-"I went to New York and there were so many people and it seemed like everyone was yelling at someone else."

I have also heard many Germans speak of our so called superficiality, no doubt a reflection on our ridiculous imported television shows. I asked Mike and Anja to be completely honest with me, and that I wouldn't be offended by anything they had to say. Anja barely spoke at all, but Mike was eager to share his thoughts. Unfortunately, he didn't offer any positive generalizations about Americans, and instead took the opportunity for some good ole USA bashing. When I traveled in Europe two years ago (when Bush was still in power), I heard a lot more of that bashing, but not surprisingly, it had more to do with Republican politics. Mike and Anja did share their enthusiasm for Obama, but in regards to stereotype #2, said "I'm surprised Obama hasn't been assasinated." Interestingly enough, I've heard that sentiment a couple of times here in Germany. Fortunately, they didn't believe these stereotypes whole heartedtly and know that they certainly do not apply to the entire population. Still, it was somehwat discouraging to hear all this negativity towards America, but I suppose my traveling experiences have made me expect nothing more. But cmon, American movies and music? All those chains dotted all across Berlin, Dunkin Donuts for example with its twenty-four chains? Don't tell me you don't appreciate American donuts....

A Serenade in the U-bahn?

2010-10-10T19:45:00.003+02:00

As a lover of music, it has been a great joy to witness numerous street performances all across the city, such as in Alexanderplatz. What I did not expect to find were musicians playing in the U-bahns. Of course, most subway stations of the world are mini venues for street artists and musicians. But within the train itself? In my last home of DC, where I rode the metro every day multiple times a day, such a thing would never occur. But here, it's quite a regular sight. During my weekend rides in particular, I always become an audience member at least twice. By that I mean when we approach a stop, a musician (usually accompanied by someone, who is also a musician), enters the car. As soon as the train begins to move, he or they begin to play (I've never seen females take part). Take yesterday, for example. I was traveling on the U2 towards Prenzlauer Berg and around the Spittelmarkt station, an older Turkish man and his son enthusiastically entered the train. The son introduced their act with excitement, and then began to dance about as his father played the accordion. In all the times I've seen musicians enter a train car, most if not all of the passengers look away in discomfort. They don't want to have to reach into their pockets to spare some change. But then, to my astonishment, about half of the passengers end up giving money. These same people who just a minute ago barely looked up. Of course, their charity is always appreciated and based on their expressions, they don't seem to disapprove of their performing, they simply may have wished they had chosen the car behind theirs. But every time, I'm surprised by the amount of people who offer money. And each time it occurs, I can't help thinking: if the car had been filled with Americans, would the same number of people offer something? My gut reaction is no. Berliners seem to be a lot more accepting towards these sorts of things, as well as tattoos and middle aged women with dyed spiky hair. It certainly keeps it interesting. I, for one, appreciate the musicians on the U-bahn. It makes the scene much more poetic, more romantic. Makes me adore the train system here even more.

Celebrating German Reunification...in English?

2010-10-03T21:09:00.003+02:00

Today, Germany celebrated twenty years of reunification. Throughout the afternoon and evening, there were events near Brandenburger Tor as well as at the Reichstag. In attendance at the Reichstag festivities were Chancellor Merkel, as well as former Chancellor Helmut Kohl, who seemed to have tears in his eyes as the cameras zoomed in on him. The first event of the program featured a young a capella group, with enthusiastic performers. But as soon as they started singing, I was shocked by what I heard: English. For the first real event on the program (there had been historic videos auf Deutsch, of course, that played on large video screens right before), the group was singing entirely in English. Not only that-the lines I was able to pick up were quite strange, the most memorable of them being: "sometimes I creep myself out." As my friend Amanda commented, it seemed a bit inappropriate, but would have been perfect for the TV show Glee.

As I rode the Sbahn home, I couldn't help but reflect on this strange moment. Everything that followed (multiple musical performances) were auf Deutsch, but the question remained: why did they have this English tune at all? What was the logic behind choosing it as the first song of the evening? As it was happening, I turned to look at the Germans around me, but their expressionless faces gave nothing away-they seemed simply indifferent. I don't understand the point of it, but if anything, it really goes to show that English is truly the lingua franca of the world. But I can't help but wonder, will our American youth one day sing a non-English song at a fourth of July celebration?

Reflections on das Fahrrad

2010-09-26T20:47:00.004+02:00

Roughly a month has passed since I have arrived in Berlin. Upon immediate arrival, any newcomer to the city will notice the great usage of das Fahrrad (bicycle) by people of all ages. Like most Scandanavian cities I have visited (Bergen, Norway; Malmo Sweden; Copenhagen, Denmark) as well as those in the Benelux countries (Amsterdam, Brussels, Antwerp), the bike is a well beloved and widely used form of transporation. Even some of the students in the FU-Best program have bought their own bikes. When I made my first grand tour of Europe two years ago, I was shocked to find such a thing as a bike lane, which at least at that point, had not yet started to appear in the States (in DC, for example, numerous bike lanes have been added in the past year). When I was living in DC, my four other housemates all had bikes, two of whom rode them to work each day. I would have loved to use a bike, but I was too nervous to ride in a city with few bike lanes. Here, anyone can ride a bike with no fear of risk or danger on the road. There are bike lanes on every strasse, and at times, bike lights as well. Consequently, I observe people of all ages riding bikes. What has been most fascinating to me is to see elderly folks (who appear to be in their seventies) still riding a Fahrrad. I can hardly remember an occassion of having witnessed such a thing in the States. Which leaves me to my next thought: it appears that the older population enjoys better health overall than their counterparts in the States. I always see the elderly out on a healthy jaunt through the neighborhood, or perhaps striding along with their groceries. Somehow it seems to me that older Germans are simply healthier than older Americans. Of course, after pronouncing such a gross generalization as that, I will admit that a better statement would simply be: I find older Berliners very fit. Still, I can't help but make comparisons based on my observations here and elsewhere.

Especially when I happened to see dozens and dozens of pre-Baby Boomers running towards the Berlin Marathon's finish line this afternoon. I even have documentation proof.

The Paris I briefly saw

2010-09-19T21:27:00.006+02:00

Comparisons between Berlin and Paris

2010-09-19T21:08:00.002+02:00

This past week, our group traveled to France. We spent about five days in the city of lights, before traveling north to Normandy. Upon hearing many of my peers grow nostalgic for Berlin after a few days in Paris, I began to reflect on the differences between these two great cities. Although these are generalizations made only after a short period of time spent in both places, I think they reflect at least on a basic level how Paris and Berlin differ on the surface.

For one, Berlin is a much more organized and clean city. In Paris, many people complained about a particular smell they kept encountering. I, for one, found that Paris resembled New York in that large cities and their metropolitan areas often have sewage problems and consequently, do not always smell like fresh roses. Because Berlin is absolutely obsessed with proper disposal of trash, the city is almost spotless as well as odorless.

A good point of comparison between the two cities is the subway system. In Berlin, the S and U-Bahn are very well managed and are extremely neat, depsite the allowance of food and drink. Paris's Metro, on the other hand, is rather dirty and indeed smelly. Additionally, the Metro appeared to be used by more people. The cars were always packed, whether it was rush hour or not. I have hardly seen the S or U-Bahn that full once since I arrived here. In my observations, I do believe that both trains run as frequently-which is a great deal more often than their US counterparts.

Another difference that I observed was in regards to diversity. Although Berlin is not a homogenous society, especially with its large Turkish population, I don't think it comes anywhere close to matching the level of diversity in Paris. Paris has an even larger Muslim population, and is also home to French-Africans, not mention a very large percentage of foreigners, both expats and tourists alike. Perhaps for this reason, I felt more at ease in Paris, because it was easier to blend into society.

I think another key difference between these cities is related to the quote I have mentioned at the top of this blog-"Berlin is a city condemned forever to becoming and never being." Paris is a place that has kept its city intact-it is a city that wears its history and has retained its charm-Paris breathes tradition and beauty. Berlin, on the other hand, was completely destroyed in the war, and has gone through numerous upheavels since then. Despite the fact that Berlin engages in critical reconstruction, there is almost a sense of superficial gloss over some of these places that have been rebuilt as they once stood-Nikolaiviertel, for example. In Paris, this isn't the case. The feeling I have of Berlin is that it reflects its reconstruction-it is a city that has died and been reborn multiple times. But Paris has always lived on.

Language thoughts

2010-09-05T21:31:00.004+02:00

As I stumbled through my German this week, I unfortunately found myself relying on English in multiple circumstances. Naturally, I know I will becmoe more comfortable with speaking Deutsch as I continue to learn, but these English only situations brought me back to some ideas I've often thought of: that is, how fluent young Europeans are in multiple languages, and how sorely the American youth's language skills pale in comparison. Take me, for example. As a Greek American, I grew up attending Greek school and church, but have retained only a slim amount of knowledge. I took Spanish for numerous years, and actually became fairly proficient. However, I chose not to continue studying it in college, which prevented me from becoming fluent. I took some Hindi during my study abroad semester in India, but remember very little now. Now, I am very happy I am learning German and hope to actually stick with it. I have always had a keen interest in languages, but I know that most of my American peers don't share my enthusiasm. Here, however, the European youth have no choice but to know English, and other languages as well.

I was thinkign about this at the welcome dinner the school set up for us, as I sat across from a German boy who was a part of a homestay family. He told me, rather nonchalantly, that he spoke three languages at home: Hebrew, German, and English. But he also studied French at school, and I got the impression that he was rather good at that, too. Then today, as I was hanging otu with some German friends, I marveled at home smoothly and easily they moved between German, English, and even some French. And there I sat, trying to pick up the words I knew and awkwardly (and slowly) put together my responses. For someone fascinated by languages, these Germans inspire me with their multi-language fluencies, but it also reminds me of how far behind us Americans are.

Here's a fascinating article from the Times questioning whether or not language shapes how we think-I think there is quite an obvious answer..

www.nytimes.com/2010/08/29/magazine/29language-t.html?pagewanted=2

Die Erste Woche: Passing moments

2010-08-30T10:29:00.002+02:00

moments across five days

2010-08-29T20:10:00.000+02:00

A lovely shot of Museumsinsel

Treptower Park, Soviet War Memorial

Berliner Dom

The Film and Tv Museum

Brandenburg Tor

On the way to Victoriapark

A wonderful haus on Zossener Str., in Kruezberg

The First Few Days

2010-08-29T19:20:00.000+02:00

I arrived to this place with a whirlwind of images in my mind: stills from Marlene Dietrich films, Isherwood's Berlin of cabaret and frivolity, Hitler's Olympia-Stadion, Allies' footage of bombed out Berlin, and the broken pieces of the wall scattered across the globe nowadays. When I left DC, I collected these bits and let them stay behind as I boarded the plane. Rule number 1 that I learned in my past two study abroad experiences: forget what you know. Let yourself become a sponge, and soak up what the city offers you.

And now, after five fruitful days of exploration, I believe I have a more authentic repertoire of images to choose from. Albeit, I am still a tourist after five days, seeing the sights that one expects to see upon arrive in this city and what the Berliners proudly share: Brandenburg Tor and the Berliner Dom, the Museums on Museumsinsel, Humboldt University and even the TV tower-but all these landmarks aer slightly overshadowed by the memory of National Socialism-Hitler's Wilhelmstrasse lies just a stone's throw from Brandenburg Gate, Bebelplatz in the midst of Humboldt-all scars meant for remembrance.

So besides all that, which is what anyone and almost everyone would say, I am left with the following things in my mind, which have surprised and enlightened me:

Perhap's it's cliche to begin with Currywurst, especially if any foodies read this, and maybe this came first because it is almost dinneritme, but I have been struck by the amount of delicious, cheap street food in this city. Of course, currywurst and doner kebab are perhaps the most well known items available, and they seem to be eveywhere. Unlike in the States, where the food trucks (especially in DC) are only frequented by tired and perhaps lazy tourists, street food here is appreciated by all. And how could it not be? I have been satisfied with everything I have sampled and will surely indulge myself again very soon! :)

Transporation: Anyone who knows me is aware of my public transporation love affairs, and most likely knew how excited I was to meet the U/Sbahn system. Like many European systems, there are no gates to pass through upon entering or leaving a station; rather, a passenger is expected to buy a ticket and have on their person to show in the chance they are asked to present it. As youc an expect, there is a hefty fine attatched to not presenting a ticket, and it's difficult to know how many abuse the system. I have often considered if these sorts of situations could work in an American subway system, and I don't think it could-it is one of those American-European contrasts that is difficult for me to pin down. Compared to the DC metr, which I used every day multiple times a day for a couple years, the U/S bahn trains are amazing. Why? They come often, are clean, and the stations are very close together, so you can get practically anywhere in the city. Here's another difference: dogs are allowed to come on the trains. You here a lot of "Warte's!" and "Sitzts!"
Moreover, each station is unique-each station has it's own personal history and style-which makes it even more of a pleasure to use.

This city has a very dynamic and alive feel to it-certainly an exciting, vibrant place to be. What strikes me more than anything is how multilayered the city is, in terms of it's history, culture, and society. You can see this perhaps best through Berlin's architecture, which ranges from remnants of its Prussian past up through East Berlin's communist blocks, to post-unification glass structures, meant to represent transparency (i.e the Reichstag). The past, present, and future all collide on the same strasse. For a history and art lover, every km proves for a fascinating study. I know the next few months will bring hours of strolling and constantly finding new things in this ever shifting setting.

I have already found my English bookstore, called Another Country in trendy Kruezberg (also, a brillant cafe called Cafe Cucuma with a lovely upstairs for reading and sipping heise schokolade). I was also able to climb Victoriapark, which offered a pleasant vantage point to see the city from. Now here's something no guidebook will tell you: Berlin's classical station, 100.2, which has been playing in my apartment, is a FANTASTIC station. So these are a few of those images-mixed in with crowds roaming Museumsinsel for Lange Nacht der Museen, and dare I say it? rowdy British men out on pub crawls on Oranienburger Strasse. Didn't expect to see that.